intermediate · 180 min
Sewing a Secret Belgian binding
An intermediate binding — the Secret Belgian, also called Criss-Cross, a structured spine that hides the sewing behind a woven exterior.
Secret Belgian binding, also called Criss-Cross, is a sewn structure invented in the 1980s by Anne Goy in Belgium that combines the flat-opening behaviour of Coptic with a clean, cased appearance. The name comes from the fact that the sewing is hidden — from the outside you see a woven pattern of thread on the spine, but none of the internal stitching that holds the signatures together.
Materials
| Item | Specification | Quantity | |---|---|---| | Folded signatures | 120gsm, 4 folios | 8 | | Cover boards | 2mm chipboard, cut to size | 2 | | Spine piece | Same chipboard, width = textblock thickness + 8mm | 1 | | Cover fabric | 180–220gsm cotton | Piece to wrap all 3 boards | | Waxed linen thread | 18/3 | 6m | | Needles | Size 18 | 2 |
Steps
- Wrap all three boards (front cover, spine, back cover) in cotton fabric with 8mm gaps between them to allow hinging.
- Pierce four stations on the front and back covers at 20mm, 60mm, 100mm, and 140mm from the head.
- Pierce matching stations on every signature.
- Thread the front cover with diagonal vertical passes in waxed linen to form the exterior criss-cross pattern.
- Repeat the pattern on the back cover.
- Anchor the first signature to the front cover by passing through from inside to out at station 1.
- Continue the spine-hidden long-stitch through each signature, catching the crossed threads on the cover as you go.
- Kettle at each signature end and transition to the next.
- Connect the final signature to the back cover's criss-cross threads.
- Tie off inside the last signature.
What to watch for
- The 8mm gap between cover and spine is critical. Too small and the book will not hinge; too large and the binding looks sloppy.
- Secret Belgian needs very even station spacing. Use a jig or pierce all signatures together.
- This binding does not forgive slack tension. Pull every stitch firm and check for loops after each signature.
FAQ
Why is it called Secret Belgian?
Because the sewing structure is invisible from the outside — the spine shows only a woven criss-cross of thread, hiding the long-stitch that holds the textblock.
Is Secret Belgian good for beginners?
No. It is an intermediate binding. Start with pamphlet and Coptic, then move to Secret Belgian after five or six successful books.
Does it lie flat?
Almost. A Secret Belgian opens to about 340 degrees — not the full 360 of Coptic, but far flatter than a case-bound book.
How long does it take?
About three hours for a first attempt. Most of that is the criss-cross weaving on the covers.
Go deeper: book-binding styles compared, waxed linen thread 101, and cover materials supplies.
next step
The kit for this tutorial
Skip the sourcing — see the coptic journal starter kit with everything pre-cut to size.